Standard password for Airtel modem 220BX

The other day I spent some time trying to figure out what was the password to reach the configuration of the modem so as to be able to install a wifi network (http://jamodiy.blogspot.com/2011/04/connecting-wireless-router-to-switch-to.html).

Finally, after some time I came across this other web-site which game the answer:

Username: admin
Password: password

Connecting a wireless router to a switch to an Airtel ADSL modem

When I arrived there was no wireless network here. The Airtel ADSL modem was distributing the wired network to all computers through a switch.

It took me sometime to find out how to do this until I came across this information on how to connect a router to a router:

Suppose you have an ADSL modem with a four port router (e.g., a D-Link DSL504 ADSL Modem/Router or 2Wire 2701HGV-W). You've bought a second router (e.g., a Belkin 54Mbps Wireless 802.11g) and want to plug this into the network to add in and to share more local machines, and to share the Internet connection. Let's refer to the first ADSL router as router A and the second as router B.

Configure router A to issue DHCP addresses in some range that does not include one IP address that we will use for router B For example, router A might only issue IP's in the range starting at 192.168.0.2 and ending at 192.168.0.33 and we'll configure router B with 192.168.0.40. This is all the setup that is required for router A, which otherwise has DHCP enabled and its usual WAN setup for your ISP.

Disable DHCP for router B, and configure its WAN (Wide Area Network) type to be STATIC and set it to any IP (e.g., 192.168.111.2--should be different to the A network), with a netmask of 255.255.255.0. Specify a gateway IP of 0.0.0.0 (or perhaps 192.168.111.1, if your router will not allow 0.0.0.0). This will stop it sending traffic to its WAN (we won't be using this router's WAN connection).

The LAN (local area network) configuration for router B should be set to STATIC with an IP address within the subnet range of router A but outside its DHCP range. We might set the LAN IP to 192.168.0.40 (or 10.0.0.137) with a Subnet Mask of 255.255.255.255 (or 255.255.255.254 perhaps if that doesn't work) and with DHCP Disabled. In fact, router A will serve as the DHCP server for anything connected to router B.

Make sure that nothing is plugged into router B's WAN. Connect a LAN ethernet port of router B to a LAN ethernet port of router A to have them talking to each other, using the usual ethernet cable that you would use to plug your computer into the router.

Source: http://togaware.com/linux/survivor/Router_Router.html

Although the Airtel ADSL modem 220BX I have here is not a router, it is the one providing the DHCP, therefore, it should be treated as if it was the router itself.

Keep in mind that the switch is a totally passive device and there is no configuration you have to do on it.

The only change I had to do with respect to the information from togaware.com is that the Subnet mask for the network of router B couldn't be 255.255.255.255, or 254, but had to be 255.255.255.0, and I had no problem about it.

Also, it could be a good idea that you assigned static IPs to the computers and laptops that will be connected through the wifi network, otherwise there maybe some IP clashing with the wired computers (as the wifi network is getting IP assignment from the modem, but is not included in the DHCP list).

Set up Router as a repeater (bridge) to extend Wi-fi range

I shifted my place of work from one room to another in the same flat. The modem is hard to move, and the router I bought does not have enough signal power to reach the new room where I work from. After many attempts of using reflectors and other devices to increase the antenna power of the router... I decided to buy a new router. Here goes what I did:

(If some of the terms like IP, DHCP, MAC, etc, sound difficult now, don't worry, go ahead and once you start doing things with the router you will understand them all)

1. Buy second router of the same brand as the first one. It may work with different brands as well, but this minimizes the errors, I think. Do confirm that the router has the capacity to be used as a bridge before buying the second router. In my case, I'm using: PN-11N WRT - 11N Wireless Router

2. Switch on your new router and connect it through LAN to your computer (if you have two computers it will help a lot).

3. Browse to the configuration page of the router, e.g. http://192.168.1.1

4. Change IP address of the router to anything else (e.g. 192.168.1.10), reboot the router for this to take effect.


5. Browse again to the router, this time to the new IP. In my case http://192,168.1.10

6. Go the wireless settings and enable "WDS". From the router help you can read:

Enable WDS - You can select this to enable WDS, with this function, the Router can bridge two or more Wlans. NOTE: If this checkbox is selected, you had better make sure the following settings are correct.

7. If there is a "Search" option, click on it to find the router to which you want to connect. Of course, make sure that that router is ON!
If there is no Search function, enter the SSID (the name of the router) and the BSSID (the MAC address of the router) of the router you want to connect with.



8. Enter the right Key type of the first router and the password to connect to it. Click on Save.

9. Go to the Wireless Security options and enter the Key type and password. I think these could be different from the other, but I took the same.

10. Go to DHCP Settings and disable them. Save.

11. Reboot the router (soft-reboot of course).

By now the router should work as a bridge, catching the signal from the first router and repeating it. The one actually assigning IPs to the computers connected to it is the first router (that's why you disabled DHCP).

Make sure the bridge router gets good enough signal from the first router so that it can repeat it. In my case I had to place the bridge outdoors (well protected... I hope) so as to be able to get the signal required.